Phnom Penh is crowned by the pretty gardens and evocative structures of its Grand Palace. Residents gather by the riverside to watch street magic, to munch fresh snacks, or to promenade along its banks in the cool of late day. Shady temple courtyards bekon, as do mobile phone sales booths which dot the city streets, covered in sequences of lucky numbers, like monuments to mystical numerologists. Visit the National Museum, whose superb Khmer treasures radiate magic as you wander its galleries in the slight fever heat of the day. Just outside, vendors display lurid florescent paintings on black velvet or scaled-down versions of Angkor sculptures destined for decorative nooks around the globe. Darker history ripples below every surface, emerging as a cloud of bats at dusk. Children patiently re-trace classical dance gestures, nearly lost to time and war, but threaded into the very blood and soul of Cambodians.

The population of the capital city is over 1 million (that's about 40,000 Utopians).

Click here for Phnom Penh hotels and accommodations.

• Blue Chilli Pub
  St 178 (next to National Museum), email. Openly gay and lesbian-friendly bar, where the guys are not only handsome, but charming. Dance with their DJ into the early hours. Also, try their intimate Blue Room. Utopia Member Discount
• Monsoon Wine Bar (mixed)
  #17, Street 104, 012-214-973, email. This gay and lesbian-friendly wine bar is intimate, air-conditioned, and offers a great selection of international wines by the glass/bottle. Also, nibble from their selection of divine Pakistani dishes. Cool tunes, guest DJs. Utopia Member Discount
• Salt Lounge
  No. 217, Street 136 (near the river), 012-289-905, email. Gay Khmer owned and operated bar located in the heart of Phnom Penh river district. Reasonably priced cocktails and spirits. Couches and lounge chairs for maximum comfort. Beats include all the best lounge and funky house, with a mixture of Khmer and western pop. Lesbians meet on Wed nights until 10pm. Utopia Member Discount

• Bougainvillier (Khmer and fine French cuisine)
  277 Sisowath Quay, 220-528, FAX 220-529, email. A gay and lesbian-friendly restaurant located in a boutique hotel on the river front in the tourist area, 2 minutes from the Royal Palace and National Museum. Khmer and fine French cuisine from the French chef (homemade foie gras, fish and Argentinean beef). Utopia Member Discount

SIEM REAP -- Area Code (855-63)

Population is about 100,000 (that's about 4,000 Utopians).

Click here for Siem Reap hotels and accommodations.

• Figo
  Sivatha Blvd (in the Old Market district), 063-976-077, email. Gay and lesbian friendly coffee house, restaurant and bar, located in the colonial Old Market district, only minutes from most of the fashionable hotels. Figo is super stylish, but with a relaxed elegance, generous drinks, great food, cool jazz, free Internet WiFi for customers, plus charming staff. A delightful refuge from the heat, dust and exploring ruins, plus great hang out with friends both old and new. Open noon until after midnight, except Tues. Utopia Member Discount

• Green House Kitchen
  Fantastic food at very cheap prices.
• Les Orientalistes (Khmer, French and Moroccan cuisine)
  613 Rue Wat Bo, 012-833-543, 012-440-627, email. Gay-run restaurant in a beautifully decorated villa.
• Liquid Pub and Restaurant (Asian and Western)
  E-mail: lotus@worldmail.com.kh. A very modern pub with an art deco design. Air-conditioned with outdoor café seating in addition. They serve Japanese, Malaysian and Western cuisine at reasonable prices.
• Shinta Mani (modern Asian cuisine)
  Oum Khum St, at 14th St (behind Post Office), 063-964-998, FAX 063-761-999, email. Located in a gay-friendly boutique hotel in the heart of Siem Reap's Old French Quarter. Their restaurant serves fine food, specializing in organic products and innovative menu.