The expanded and updated 2nd Edition of the Utopia Guide to Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar & Vietnam offers a remarkable insider's glimpse at the gay and lesbian scene in 18 cities including Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon, Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Yangon/Rangoon, Phnom Penh, and Angkor Wat/Siem Reap. Enjoy savvy comments and recommendations from local Utopians, as well as gay travelers. Click here to order

We'll tell you a secret. Laos is a don't-miss destination that most travelers to Asia skip simply because they haven't a clue about the wealth of beauty and tradition waiting to be discovered here. Spectacular landscapes that would have thrilled Ansel Adams abound; traditional life that has long-vanished from other parts of Asia continues here with refreshing vitality; friendly, law-abiding citizens wear handsome faces that reflect the converging streams of cultures and ethnicities that flow along the mighty mother river Mekong; costumes, cuisine, gardens and homes are a color-splashed feast for the senses. Laos has a very young population, so we expect its refreshing vibrancy to blossom further as the new generation gains confidence and freedom.

Don't travel to Laos expecting to find a sophisticated gay scene. Instead, enjoy the gentle and familial tolerance towards local gays who have begun to stand out and contribute their talents to trendy cafés, pubs, boutique hotels, galleries, restaurants and craft shops popping up in the two main cities.

• Laos Gay & Lesbian News
• Laos Gay Scene Updates message forum
• Men in Laos message forum
• Travel in Laos message forum
• Additional Links and Resources

• AIDS/HIV organizations and information

Dondet Islands

Click here for Dondet hotels and accommodations.

• River Garden (Asian and western)
  (856-20) 770-1860, email. Gay-friendly restaurant and guesthouse offering a mix of Lao, Thai and European food, plus great fresh fruit shakes. The restaurant is a brilliant spot to view the sunrise. Friendly owner, Mr. Aek, will tell you stories about the local people.

LUANG PRABANG -- area code (856-71)

Visitors to Southeast Asia should not miss a chance to visit this UNESCO World Heritage city nestled between the Mekong river and verdant jungle mountains. Visitors are delighted by the city's authentic ambience, the traditional lifestyle intrinsic to its singular charm, and the wealth of cultural treasures from the everyday lives of its monks, hilltribes, merchants, and craftsmen.

There is a surprising gay presence in the city, and even some low key, easy-going nightlife. But it is still a small town and everyone knows everybody else's business. Don't come here expecting to party. Luang Prabang is a place to relax, heal, chill-out and reflect. Everyone is generally asleep by midnight and up at dawn to feed the monks. Click here for more details and photos in our special report on this former royal capital.



The population of Luang Prabang is 26,000 (that's over 1,000 Utopians).

• Men in Luang Prabang message forum

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Luang Prabang is a wonderful place, please help to keep it the most authentic possible. It is a cultural experience." -- mxmale, Apr 9, 2010

Click here for Luang Prabang hotels and accommodations.

• Maylek Pub (mixed)
  On the corner of Kitsarath Settathirat Rd and Visunnarat Rd, not far from the Dara Market. Open air night spot. Easy-going, cozy atmosphere. Good variety of cocktails. DJ parties on occasion (watch for flyers around town). Reggae and blues beats, low-slung lounge chairs, and smiles from strangers (imagine that!).

• The 4 Stars (mixed)
  On the same road as Dao Faa, 1km beyond.
• Dao Faa (mixed)
  Near the stadium. Lots of cute local guys and some gays. Nightly.
• Duang Jampa (mixed)
  Just outside town, about 15-20 minutes by tuk-tuk or truck (ask your driver to wait and take you home). Open nightly, from 9:30pm-midnight. Very popular with local gays.
• Muang Xuo (mixed)
  Phou Vao Rd. Nightly (closes before midnight). Packed and popular Lao style disco, with live music, disco dancing and socializing. Plan to walk home if you stay until closing as transportation will be difficult to find late at night.

• James Pub (mixed)
  Next to Dao Faa, near the stadium. Karaoke and dance from 10:30pm-midnight. Young crowd, including local gays.
• Kitti Tum (mixed)
  Next to stadium, near Dao Faa.

• Dhammada de Massage
  Near the Dala Market, 020-554-5995. Mainly masseurs, unlike the rest of the massage places in town, and a class above, in both setting and massage.
• Red Cross Blind Massage (mixed)
  Red Cross complex. Herbal steam sauna and cool-off veranda where you may sip special herbal tea or get an incredibly inexpensive massage. Very down-to-earth and relaxing. Not gay, but it has a discreet gay vibe. You will most likely meet local gays or gay tourists there. Massage from 9am. Sauna opens at 4pm and closes at 9pm.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "I have been to the Red Cross sauna many times on my two trips to Laos. I recommend this experience to anyone and it is possible to discreetly meet nice local guys there." -- fsnyc, Aug 8, 2010

  "Today my partner and I visited the Red Cross massage and sauna. It is an unforgettable experience, very authentic and sexy. It is not a gay place, but many local gays meet there. There is one sauna (small room) for men and one for women. All mix outside in the waiting room. Mainly Lao people. Try the massage, it is very good and costs K$50,000 (about US$6)." -- mxmale, Apr 9, 2010

  Comments from Utopians:

  "You can have good massages by young men working in massage parlours opposite the outside restaurants on the Mekong river." -- loic, Nov 30, 2009

The Apsara (Lao and international fusion) Kingkitsarath Rd, Baan Wat Sene, 212-420, email. From Villa Santi, walk down the hill towards the Khan River (opposite side of the Peninsula from the the Mekong) and make a left. The Apsara restaurant and guesthouse is a couple blocks down. At night it glimmers with candlelight. Located in a lovingly renovated heritage building overlooking the river. Stylish decor blends funky Asian elements, bold color and fine art. Well-stocked bar, smart and attentive staff, and excellent menu accent the local lifestyle. After dinner tuck into a fabulous dessert like coconut lime pie drizzled with home-made quince sauce, or sink back in the lounge seating for cocktails, conversation, and chill-out music.

• Couleur Café (French and Lao)
  48/5 Ban Vat Nong, 020-621-064, email. Gay-owned and staffed café near the Mekong and Café Regine. Open nightly, with reasonably priced drinks and food. Charming setting in an old heritage home, open to the street and colorfully decorated. Cool, jazzy music. Popular with visitors and local gays alike. The name refers to luscious coffee-colored skin tones.
• The House Restaurant & Bar (Belgian cuisine)
  Phousi Rd (Nam Khan Riverside), 071-255-021, email. Next door to Lao Lao Garden. The House is a gay and lesbian-friendly restaurant and bar with great food, cocktails and wine. Their Belgian chef cooks up specialties like lasagna, beef stews, tasty fries and Belgian chocolate desserts. Plenty for vegetarians as well, plus an appealing range of Belgian beers. Cooler inside seating when the weather is hot and a lovely terrace full of flowers. For every budget. Cute staff. Quality cuisine at an excellent price. They would also like to be an information center to gays and lesbians about do's and don'ts in Laos. Utopia Member Discount

  L'Elephant Restaurant et Salon de thé (Lao and international fine dining) Ban Vat Nong (on the corner opposite Wat Nong), 252-482, email. Sophisticated cuisine incorporating the freshest local ingredients, full bar and fine wines, and utterly delectable sweets. The setting is elegant with striking design (even their bathroom sets a standard for beauty and cleanliness). Excellent service from charming waiters and friendly management. Don't miss a chance to dine here (and also, check out the beautiful hand woven silks in the shop next door).

• Le Café Ban Vat Sene (coffee shop)
  On the main road, opposite and down a bit from Villa Santi. Up-market and gay-friendly hang-out serving good Lao and international food, baked goods (great croissants) and fantastic pastries (try the banana pie!). Superior Lao craft items on sale as well. Handsome waiters are oh so charming.
• Luang Prabang Bakery
  Sisavangvong Rd, 252-499. One of Luang Prabang's fantastic bakeries. Sit and watch the passersby while munching on fresh bread, quiche, or heavenly desserts.
• Park Houay Mixay Restaurant (Lao and Luang Prabang)
  75/6 Ban Sothikhoummane Rd (not far from Wat Paa Phai), 212-260. Some of the best local cuisine in town. Be sure to try a Luang Prabang style salad made from fresh watercress. Other great dishes: plaa brio waan (fish in thick, pungent sweet and sour tamarind paste); sí ooa (spicy northern pork sausage); mook plaa (herbed fish soufflé); poa naw mai (stuffed bamboo shoot); and the local specialty -- kai pan (crispy riverweed with sesame) dipped in jao bong (buffalo skin jam).
• Restaurant Vouthi Mixay (Lao and Luang Prabang)
  Phou Vao Rd, 212-888. Sister branch of Park Houay Mixay, near Muang Xuo disco.

Vangvieng -- area code (856-23)

Click here for Vangvieng hotels and accommodations.

VIENTIANE -- area code (856-21)

The capital city is a short ride from the border with Thailand at Nongkhai. It is very easy to visit Vientiane, even for a day. There is a shuttle bus from the Thai side of the friendship bridge which will take you across to Laos. The Visa-on-arrival office however is not always open, so be sure to check before you cross or you may not be able to enter Laos.

The Mekong river divides a community of people who are basically Esarn culturally. Everyone in Vientiane can speak and understand Thai. They all listen to Thai pop music, watch Thai TV, and it is relatively easy for the Lao to cross over to Thailand. On the Thai side of the river, people listen to Lao country songs and speak Lao. The most noticeable distinctions from Thai-Esarn are the bright red dirt roads which slice through an abundance of trees and wildflowers which have long since vanished from Thai farms and gardens. You may also notice that Lao temples are more animistic, colorful, and free-form compared with the institutionalized decor and behaviors in Thai temples. In general, Laos appears lush, natural and carefree.

Vientiane has a frontier town feel to it, with its drowsy lanes, ever-spreading gardens, and French-colonial villas slowly fading into sepia-tinted retirement.

There are lots of clubs, karaoke bars, discos, and restaurants in town that appeal to local gays and lesbians. Nightlife swings until early morning.

It is best to use Thai baht while in Vientiane. The initial fun of wielding fistfuls of kip gets tired quickly, and you won't be able to exchange any of it when you leave unless you have your original receipt when you first exchanged your money into local currency.

The population of the capital city is over 200,000 (that's 8,000 Utopians).

• Men in Vientiane message forum

  
  

• Don't miss the mysterious, fantastical folk-sculpture garden, a short drive south from the Friendship Bridge, which is the older sibling to Wat Kaeg on the Thai side of the Mekong.
• Several temples offer traditional Lao herbal saunas which are open to the public and good places to relax with the locals. Braver sorts might enjoy a relaxing work-over at Ajarn Amphone's Herbal Sauna on Anjou Street (1 block northwest of the Tai-pan hotel) which includes an hour-long Shaolin massage by a Kung Fu master, including welt-inducing vacuum cups.

• Blue Cool (mixed)
  Located on the right side of the road as you drive on Luangprabang Rd from the airport to Novotel. New club opened by the former owner of Pack Luck.
• Dong Tan Palace Hotel nightclub
  On the river front, east of the city center. Many gays after everywhere else in the city closes at midnight, as it's open until at least 2am every night.
• GQ
  On the same street as the InterCity and Orchid hotel (walk down the street next to it), which is a side street from the road along the Mekong River, Fa Ngum Rd. The best time to visit is 10pm-midnight. Loads of friendly guys.
• Lak Song (mixed)
  Sene Souk Hotel nightclub, 100 Louangprabang Rd, 213-375. Popular disco attracts a young crowd. Standing room only on Sat nights. Some prefer to go other nights when it is less crowded and conversations are possible. Closes at midnight.

• D-Tech (mixed)
  At the Novotel. Best decorated club in town with an international crowd. Far and away Vientiane's most popular disco. Jam packed on Wed Fri Sat and Sun after 9pm. Closes at 11pm - same as everywhere. Extremely loud music, of course.
• Suradhit
  Dongpalan Village. After the Mpoint Mart, turn left on the first street. Popular gay party spot. A disco and hotel combo. How convenient.

• Hatpraseuth Massage & Sauna
  218-654. Open 10am to 10pm. Mixed massage establishment with two or three masseurs who are professionally trained.
• Heng Heng Massage
  Near the Chinese Market. Ask for a masseur. Private massage rooms.
• GQ
  See listing under Bars.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Earlier this month I visited the GQ around 4pm. There were four masseurs available. Maybe their English was not the best, but they did their best and were very friendly. As in many Lao massage parlors, there are many beds to a room. Curtains between make it more private. The massage was good and pleasant." -- popchisuku, Dec 26, 2009

  "Went to GQ massage on Sun around 2:30pm. It is half way down Chao Anou Rd on the right hand side if coming from Intercity Hotel. I went into the bar and there was just one guy working there. He took me upstairs and I saw three massage tables with curtains around them, side by side. It was the same guy who was going to give the massage. I was not offered a shower, there was nowhere to hang my clothes (so I used the massage table next to mine). Massage was so-so. I'd asked for 90 minutes but got about 65 minutes. He did not speak much English. I asked for a shower after and went to a combined toilet/ shower room where there was no soap. Went back downstairs and there was one more masseur by then. So a pretty ordinary experience. I then went to Champa Spa next to Lane Xang Hotel. Asked for a male masseur and they asked if I wanted a real man or not. Said yes and went for the one hour scrub and one hour massage. Had a private room with shower. Very good scrub and massage in a much more pleasant environment." -- hcmpp, Nov 29, 2009

• Outdoor boxing school beside the river.
• Place Nam Phou fountain in the evenings.
• The riverside park.

• Europe Restaurant (Swiss, Italian, French, and Asian cuisine)
  086 Ban Saphanthong Neua, Phonsavanh Rd, 414-086, mobile 020-207-539. Partners Peter and Pasa have opened at a bigger and better location for their famous restaurant. Excellent service and fine cuisine. Staff are handsome and friendly.
• Europe Swiss Restaurant (Swiss)
  086 Ban Saphanthong Neua, Phonsavanh Rd, 414-086, mobile: 20-220-7539. Handsome and friendly staff.
• Healthy and Fresh Bakery
  44/4 Ban Xieng Yeun, Sethathirath Rd, 215-265. Excellent and inexpensive light lunches.
• Jai Dee Restaurant
  Manthathuriat St (near the Namphou Fountain). Art, the owner, is very friendly and he knows everything a Utopian should know about the capital. Have a drink at Art's bar. It is always open during the day. To eat, go at night for a wonderful dinner. His staff are very friendly and good-looking.
• Kua Lao (Lao)
  111 Samsenthai Rd, 215-777, 214-813.
• L'Estaminet (ice cream, French, Lao and Thai food)
  Ban Hatsady, Lane-Xang Ave (across the street from the Morning Market), 250-975, email. Gay-owned and staffed. Located in downtown Vientiane on the famous Lane Xang Ave. Sit in theirr tropical garden or indoors. Reasonably priced food. Friendly staff are well-trained, attentive, and can serve you in four languages: Lao, Thai, English, or French.
• L'Opera (Italian)
  Namphu Circle, 215-099. Excellent food and classical music playing softly in the background. Try their special "Lao Pizza".
• Le Bayou Restaurant Brasserie (French and American)
  Sethathirath Rd, 222-227.
• Le Provencal (French)
  Namphu circle (diagonally opp. from L'Opera), 513-412. Authentic French country cuisine.
• Le Safran (French)
  Rue Nokeokoumane, 222-997, 215-626.
• Le Silapa (French)
  17/1 Sihom Rd, Ban Haysok, 219-689. Superb cuisine.
• Le Vendome (French)
  159/1-2 Inpeng Ban Watchane, 216-402, 020-612-467, email. Excellent French cuisine in an old Lao colonial house, with tables both outside under fans or inside with aircon. Average price US$15 per person for three courses without wine. Very friendly atmosphere.
• Moon the Night (Lao)
  Thanon Kamkon (on the banks of the Mekong), 217-073. About 10 minutes drive from the Novotel. The easiest way to get there is by tuk-tuk (it’s well-known among the locals). This restaurant can get packed full of good looking Lao young people. They play some very gay songs, i.e. I Will Survive, Can’t Take my Eyes Off of You, etc. Lots of fun.
• Phone Pha Chan Bistro (cafe)
  Noreko Kummane Rd, Ban Mixay, 216-045. Inexpensive cafe with photo exhibitions.
• Riverside open-air restaurants (plentiful, ask your friend to take you there for lunch).

• Sauna Wat Chan (mixed)
  Next door to GQ bar. Frequented by gays.

• Talaat Sao. The charming, large, central city market is full of craft items, especially traditional fabrics.