Travel & Resources: JAPAN Recommended by Tokyo Journal, Badi, and Barazoku.
Please help us keep these listings current and correct. Special thanks to sb13, kenchan, Easyrider, Beefee, Shuntarou, YS, Foota, Jason, Les Rutt, Larry, tokyofit, Darren, Jeffry, Mark, Wilson, Hiroshi, Geoff, and Sei.
The updated and expanded 2nd Edition of the Utopia Guide to Japan surveys the gay and lesbian scene in 27 cities including Tokyo, Kyoto, Nagoya and Hiroshima. Listings include organizations, bars, discos, accommodations, spas, restaurants, and more. A special section highlights venues that are especially welcoming for women. Enjoy savvy comments and recommendations from local Utopians and gay travelers, as well as maps and addresses in Japanese. Click here to order
"It's the way we welcome the sun with 35 sun-block. The way the best water, now mostly comes in bottles. It's the way we make time for exercise and like to enjoy reading. That's why SUBWAY offers the varieties of fresh and healthy subs. Because when you are through surfing, you might want to put on a bathing suit. It's the way a sandwich should be." -- printing on the SUBWAY sandwich chain's drinking cups
Pocket Wetty -- tissue brand
Raw Dust Only -- sign above a garbage can
"Foreigners please rebrain from entering" -- gay club advertisement
-- yummy angel sweets
J.O. Pokari Sweat Calpis Nude BM Coffee Fine Aroma Straight Swoosh! -- popular soft drinks
Chicken Tetsuya Jelly Topping Shakes Pepper Burger with Potato Sauce -- items on the menu at McDonalds
-- chewy fruit Dew-Dews
"OK! No! Freaks of Gogo Spectators" -- website title
She Her Her (Super Emission) -- chewing gum
"Sodom. Enjoy Your Lifestyle." -- slogan on a child's fanny pack
Japan's gay and lesbian sub-cultures are ancient and sophisticated. There are references to homosexual relationships in 11th century diaries and even in an amusing turn of events for the womanizing protagonist of The Tale of Genji, one of the world's earliest novels. Traditions of same-sex love and cults of youthful male beauty flourished in later centuries, and male prostitution was broadly available throughout the country. There are even public parks which have been cruising spots for hundreds of years and guidebooks devoted to homosexual pleasures published in the 1760's!
While uniquely fascinating, and offering a staggering variety of sexual outlets, modern Japan's gay scene can also be frustrating, discriminatory and oppressed. Gay liberation and activism have only recently emerged from the shadows, urged into the spotlight by AIDS and a young generation of homosexuals dissatisfied with widespread ignorance and stereotypes. In a country where 98% of the population gets married, many homosexuals and bisexuals express their same-sex desires only within the anonymity offered by maze-like night life districts, the lingering wisps of Edo's incense-perfumed ukiyo (floating world). Most recently, some young gays and lesbians have become decidedly more visible (there is even a guidebook for the general public, called "Gift of Gay", which details gay and lesbian influences in popular culture and history) participating in gay pride events and declaring a holiday on April 4, midway between Girl's Day and Boy's Day, wittily named "New Half Day".
Two popular stereotypes exist about Japan. First, that it is prohibitively expensive (great values for travelers do exist and it's even possible to have a fabulous budget vacation here); and secondly, that Japan is an unfriendly place for foreigners. In fact, Japan is inhospitable to other Japanese who step out of place. Shinjuku Ni-Chome, a small sub-district of downtown Tokyo, houses well over 200 gay and lesbian bars crammed into a 5-block area. Each bar may only have room to seat a dozen customers, and as a result, The Peppermint Bar will only welcome Peppermint Boys and their fans (whatever that happens to be) and other visitors, Japanese or not, will be given a decisively cold shoulder if they occupy precious space. Locate venues that feature your "type" and you will be welcomed into a cozy and secluded world where other patrons are pre-matched to your tastes. This is simply the result of hundreds of years of specialization within the shadow world and an economic reality of limited space and prohibitive rents.
You may hear the term gai-sen which connotes a Japanese who prefers foreigners (a potato queen). Many such terms exist within Japan's small social tribes, including debu-sen (fat guy chaser) and fuke-sen (old man lover).
Whatever type you are, you’ll find you have a fan here. Gay Japanese don’t waste time playing mind games, money games, or twiddling their thumbs in the closet. Refreshingly, once they know what they like they just go for it! No dilemmas, no shame. How civilized.
At least six regular gay monthly magazines exist in Japan, and they feature the broadest range of Asian gay "types" in the world. Whether you fancy portly businessmen in suits, manly workmen with crewcuts and beards, graying Grandfathers, lithe teen sportsmen, or bound and gagged fetishists, you'll find publications and pillow books dedicated to each. The "magazines" are actually thick, journal-sized soft cover books and include a spectrum of gay content including feature articles, manga (cartoon serials), hidden camera photos in showers and bathrooms, personal ads, erotic stories and advertisements. Most of the models are also featured in videos for sale in the advertising section. Some straight sports clubs make a good deal of money by selling amateur erotic videos of their freshmen members being initiated at nude drinking parties. Amusingly, you may find a packet of tissue paper included in your bag when you purchase books from gay shops, a refreshingly candid freebie. Some of the most popular publications are listed below.
Badi
The trendiest Japanese gay publication, appealing to younger gays, with a broad range of model types and sexual flavors. Very popular.
Barazoku (The Rose Tribe)
No longer bring published. This quintessential and often imitated Japanese gay magazine had one of the longest runs of a Japanese gay publication. The publisher, often quoted as saying he was not gay, admitted to Utopia that, late in his life, he’s not quite sure that’s true.
G-Men
Features bear-types, beards, mustaches, light S/M and chubby hunks.
Himawari
Transvestite and transgender magazine.
Homan
Stout and bellied businessmen and Daddies.
Sabu
Hunky, middle-aged men subjected to SM, ropes, candles, toys, rough trade, leather, piercing, fisting, bondage, body fluids, fundoshi, and crew cuts.
Samson
Girth and mirth, large and portly mature men, all the way up to Sumo-sized. Some models overlap with G-men and Sabu. But, oh, those big-bellied businessmen are the superstars here.
Silver
Middle-aged and mature, chubby, bearded, business executives and Daddies.
1532-31 Yoshiki, Chikushino-shi, business card, (81-92) 924-8826, (81-80) 1747-4901, FAX (81-92) 924-8826, email. This gay and lesbian-friendly network marketing business offers the goal of complete financial freedom in 2-4 years, working 5-10 hours a week. The company is now in 44 countries, so work may be done anywhere in the world. Utopia Member Discount
OCCUR (Japan Association for the Lesbian and Gay Movement
Ishikawa-Building 2nd Floor, 6-12-11 Honcho Nakano, Tokyo 164 Japan, (813) 3383-5556, FAX 3229-7880, email. Grassroots gay activist organization and sponsor of the Tokyo Gay and Lesbian Film/Video Festival (see below).
Beppu -- area code (81-977)
Beppu is a resort city that is famous for its many onsen (hot spring baths) along with its Beppu Hihokan museum of sex. Population is about 150,000 million (that's about 6,000 Utopians).
1-14 Ekimaehonmachi, Beppu-city Oita Japan, 738-338, email. A warm welcome for Utopians here.
Comments from Utopians:
"It's a small bar but the owner is very nice and friendly. The drinks are not too expensive and the people who go there are also nice. The owner, Takeshi, knows many spots in the city." -- babelworld, Mar 30, 2007
FUKUOKA -- area code (81-92)
Population is about 1.4 million (that's over 55,000 Utopians).
2-19-3 Haruyoshi, Chuo-ku, 092-761-4770. All ages.
Golgo
2/F 4-15-3 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, 092-413-5227. Leaving Hakata JR Station walk south then west following the main street. You will pass Hakata City Hotel on your right. When you pass Royal Host restaurant on your left, start looking down the small streets on your left. About the 3rd street you will see a small lighted sign for Golgo and Arrow. The staff is very friendly and speak limited English.
Comments from Utopians:
"Utopians will enjoy a visit to Golgo sauna. It is packed with hot young guys on Fri and Sat night. Put your Y$10 in the locker for your shoes, pay Y$1,350 for a locker and have fun all night! " -- BillyBudd, Jun 10, 2006
The Gym
4-28-4 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, 092-474-7854. Mostly young guys from surrounding area. It is best that you go with someone that is Japanese or you should be able to speak some Japanese.
Jet Zone
2-6-1 8/F Bashaku, Kokurakita-ku. 093-531-5517.
Kisen-kaikan
4-18-18 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, 092-413-7098.
Kisen-kaikan
2-14 Furu-senba, Kokurakita-ku, 093-551-1414.
Hakata-Anzuya
5-17-14 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, 092-412-3925.
Hakata Budoya
3-9-23 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, 092-272-3628.
HIROSHIMA -- area code (81-82)
Not much remains of the horror of the first atomic bombing. The small park where Hiroshima's iconic domed ruin stands, a World Heritage Site, seems forlorn and diminished in the peaceful green setting of the modern city. The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum is beautifully and effectively laid out, presenting first the history of the war and Japan's attempt to conquer Asia; followed by a collection of artifacts twisted, burned or deformed by the explosion. Then, as on that sunny morning and without warning, you turn a corner and face the ravaged humanity. Outside, an understated shrine, shaped like the canvas top of a covered wagon, barely shelters a box containing the names of the city dead -- a list, piled on other lists throughout history, of mankind's pitiless self-destruction.
Population is over 1.1 million (that's about 40,000 Utopians).
Click here for Hiroshima hotels and accommodations.
Madoka
1-1 Tanaka-cho, Naka-ku.
Snack H
2-10 Showa-cho, Fukuyama.
Splash
1-23 Yakkenbori, Naka-ku.
T2
5-3 Nagarekawa, Naka-ku.
Sun-book Kannon
13-14-101 7-Chome, Minamikannon, Nishi-ku.
Matoba Cinema
(near JR Hiroshima Station), 263-7095
Mitchan
Shintenji, 243-5935. Almost any cab driver will know where this famous Hiroshima specialty restaurant is located and expect lines at the door. What's all the fuss? Okonomiyaki, a sort of vegetable pancake grilled right at your teppan table or counter grill, is a delicious, popular and inexpensive Kansai area dish. But Hiroshima is famous for its mountainous version and this is the place to grab an icy mug of beer and dig in. Try to sit at the counter so you may enjoy the free entertainment as your dinner is assembled from up to a dozen fresh ingredients. First select your "main ingredient" such as bacon, shrimp, squid or even strips of rice mochi. Next, the chef will pour and shape paper-thin crepes the size of a large dinner plate. Onto this go shredded cabbage, tempura cracklings, and bean sprouts. Shake on a bit of seasoning, add the main ingredient, and then flip the crepe over to cook the meat and steam the veggies. On another section of the grill, noodles (soba or udon) are sizzling with a little oil and an egg before being dropped on top of the already bulging crepe. Final embelishments are added: scallions, bonito (dried fish shavings), sweet and dark sauce, and bits of nori (dried seaweed).
Kiraku-kaikan
Kyobashi-cho, Minami-ku, 263-7095.
Budoya
6-2 Hiraga Bld, Tanaka, Naka-ku.
Kagoshima -- area code (81-99)
Population is over a half million (that's about 20,000 Utopians).
3F Fasto Bld, 6-14 Sennichi-cho, 222-2924. English and Japanese speaking club. Bodega is a very friendly place, safe, and all are welcome.
Comments from Utopians:
"I was in Kagoshima for 3 months and Bodega's Master, Eddie, was very helpful to me and my gay buddies." -- Ron, Jan 17, 2006
Ground Ship
8-26 Uamanokuchi-cho.
Atlas Satsuma-ryo
17 Gionnosu, 248-1268.
Kiraku-kaikan
8-12 Ogawa-cho (two blocks from the railroad station), 226-8274.
Comments from Utopians:
"The Kirakun-kaikan sauna is a tiny place with about 10 people present when I went, mostly mature." -- NiceDutchman, Oct 9, 2006
"The Kiraku-kaikan is a great place to spend the night (or day). Foreigners are allowed, and eagerly sought after!" -- SPUP, May 29, 2006
KITAKYUSHU
Population is over 1 million (that's about 40,000 Utopians).
Bar Monkey
Very friendly, cozy and small. The other patrons are shy at first, but after a few drinks, and a karaoke song or two, you will be an old friend. The bar Master doesn't speak much English, but he will find someone who does.
KOCHI
Population is about 350,000 (that's about 14,000 Utopians).
Strike
4-10 Sakai.
KOBE
Population is over 1.5 million (that's 60,000 Utopians).
Population is about 700,000 (that's about 28,000 Utopians).
October 86
1-36 Shin-ichi-gai.
Greece
1-8-5 Simo-dori.
Yacchin
1-6-7 Simo-dori.
Atlas Higo-ryo
4-9-27 Honso, 362-0906
Kiraku-kaikan
1-11-29 Kushinaji, 362-3856.
Kumamoto Anzu-do
2-10-19 Simo-dori, 351-1446.
KYOTO -- area code (81-75)
Kyoto is the ancient capital of Japan and the repository for its traditional arts, spiritual practices, cuisine and urban way of life. It may seem positively sleepy when compared with the light speed pace of Tokyo, but somehow Kyoto manages to retain a small town feeling, even though it's a teeming city of millions. Many Kyoto gays go to nearby Osaka to socialize, so as not to be spotted wandering in Kyoto's quaint cherry and willow-lined nightlife area. Kyoto, and nearby Nara, are both magical, mystical and mesmerizing treasure vaults of cultural wonders and quiet secrets.
Most of Kyoto's major attractions are on three easy bus routes (with English signage and speaker announcements) that depart just outside the main north exit of Kyoto Station. Buy a discount pass from the ticket office there to use these special buses all day. Kyoto also has an excellent subway. North Kyoto must-sees include the Golden Pavilion (northwest), the Silver Pavilion (northeast), and the zen garden compounds of Daitoku-ji (north central). Dozens of additional major temples and shrines are often seen to best effect in specific seasons, so consult your guidebooks for the ideal itinerary on your planned dates. For a slice of Kyoto daily life, don't miss the 400-year-old shopping avenue, Nishiki-Koji Dori, in the center of the city. If you are lucky enough to be in Kyoto during cherry blossom season, head to the hillside parks east of the river and join the hanami (flower-viewing) throngs.
The population of Kyoto about 1.5 million (that's about 60,000 Utopians).
2/F Ito Bld., Kiyamachi Shijo Agaru, 213-0545. Mid 25-45yo.
Shu's
2/F Itoh Bld, Shijo-Kiyamachi, Agaru (50m down Kiyamachi St), 251-6792.
Aoi Koen, the small triangular park in the north of the city, at the point where the Kamo River splits into two branches. Also along the banks of the river nearby. A well-known cruise spot for hundreds of years! Afternoon and evenings.
Kyoto Gosho, the old Imperial Palace park grounds, just west of the intersection of Kawaramachi and Marutamachi, on the south side of the garden.
Kyoto Tower Hotel
Third basement.
Comments from Utopians:
"Sauna Verde is located near the main (north) exit of Kyoto Station. When exiting the station, look for the semi-circular building to the right on the east corner of the square. Walk to this corner, then go straight ahead, crossing the road in front of you. Sauna Verde is about two thirds of the way down the next block on the right. It's in a tall, narrow building, and the name is displayed in English on a vertical neon sign outside the building. Lifts are to the right and left of the street entrance. Check-in is on 7/F. Don't forget to remove your shoes before approaching the front-desk! Then select a shoe locker, lock your shoes inside and present your key to the desk. You're given a corresponding locker key and then pay. The bathing area and sauna is on the floor above, and there is a lounge on the floor below. Below that is a semi-darkened room with bunks. Action is discreet as the place is not exclusively gay (but you'd have to be pretty stupid not to know what's going on).
If you are a foreigner and speak no Japanese I'd suggest discretion until you are sure of who you may be dealing with. Also, don't expect to be rushed off your feet with adoring fans - Japanese tend to be politely circumspect when it comes to approaching non-Japanese.
Your good behaviour will contribute to the welcome that the owners presently extend to foreigners." -- PC, Aug 23, 2007
America-ya
5/F Redeiku Bld, Sanjo Dori and Kawaramachi (northwest side), 212-9810.
MATSUYAMA (Ehime Prefecture) -- area code (81-89)
Population is a half million (that's 20,000 Utopians).
Ikkyu
5-7-22 Tokiwa, Imabari.
Public Now
6-7 Niban-cho1.
Kiraku-kaikan
2-5 Wakakusa, 945-7229.
Think
8-1 Fukuin-cho, 970-8878.
Think
5-7-22 Daishinden, Imabari, 831-7831).
MIE
One Up
8-1 Suwa-sakae, Yokkaichi.
Ayanami Shoten
678 Funae-cho, Matsusaka, 0598-51-0711.
MIYAZAKI -- area code (81-98)
Population is 300,000 (that's about 12,000 Utopians).
Duck
3-8-7 Tachibana-dori-nishi.
Shirahama
3-1-20 Tachibana-dori-nishi.
Kiraku-kaikan
1-9-13 Takachiho-dori, 523-1150.
NAGASAKI -- area code (81-95)
Population is over a half million (that's 20,000 Utopians).
Nagoya is a rather mundane, modern city, although it is home to a picturesque Shogun's castle as well as one of Japan's most sacred Shinto shrines, Tatsuta, situated in a dense, almost primeval forest grove in the middle of the modern city.
The population is 2.2 million (that's about 90,000 Utopians).
Take the train to Inuyama. Exit the station to the roadside stop for bus #2 (you will take bus #1 when you return). This "Disneyland of architecture" has rescued and restored more than 60 historical buildings from the 19th and early 20th centuries, when Japan opened itself to the world, and situated them in a fantasy retro landscape of steam locomotives, wooded lakes and clomping Clydesdale horses. Star among the treasures is the front fountain and lobby of Frank Lloyd Wright's masterwork, the Tokyo Imperial Hotel, lost in the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923. Artisans have duplicated every detail, using both original surviving pieces and recreated ones from matching materials, including furniture and lamps! You can even have tea in the lobby restaurant.
Tagata Jinja
From Inuyama Station, take the local train towards Komaki and get off at the Tagata Jinja Mae Station. Exit the station, turn left and walk to the first intersection. Cross the street, turn left and walk about about four blocks. This Shinto shrine glorifying the erect penis houses a collection of phallic carvings and objects that are the center of attraction during the annual Hounen Matsuri fertility festival each Mar 15. If you are lucky enough to visit during the festival itself, you will see a giant member, with its foreskin bunched up behind a ruddy swollen head, carved from the trunk of a cyprus tree. Weighing almost a ton, it takes a team of worshippers to carry it from a nearby hillside shrine to Tagata. Buy a wooden votive tablet etched with a manga (cartoon) dick and leave your wishes on it for good fortune. Nearby Ogata Jinja houses objects representing the female anatomy.
Nan-Nan
1-7-15 Sakae Itchome, Naka-ku (near the train station), 201-4740. 20-40yo.
Hips
1/F Tokyo Bld, 4-11-10 Sakae Yonchome, Naka-ku, 265-904. Muscle, short hair, and older brother types. Closed Thurs.
2/F Manshin Bld, 10-15 Nishiki 1-chome (off Hirokoji Dori, near Nayabashi Bridge), Naka-ku, 223-3788, email. Easy to find (see map on their website), about 10 blocks from the Nagoya Train Station. Mostly mature men here, but all ages, types and nationalities are welcome. They even have a world map on the wall showing where all of their guests have come from. Masta Hide opened his friendly bar in 2001. Sidekick, Mink, can speak a little bit of English, Spanish, German, and Portuguese. This is a traditional Japanese style club so you'll be served a snack with the first drink. Closed Tue.
Central Sakae (see map on their website), 090-4194-9722, email. The closest major intersection is Hirokoji-dori and Otsu-dori. Just minutes walk from the Citibank Sakae, the LOFT, and Maruzen. A non-profit, monthly gay and lesbian dance party on the 2nd Sat of every month in central Nagoya. Shows, not only fabulous drag queens, but various performances by men and women. Hot house music from 10pm-5am (or later). Inexpensive netry includes two drinks.
Pancrace
Hirokoji-Dori, 541-1919. Hirokoji-Dori is one of the main streets in Nagoya. Start from the end at the Nagoya main station and walk towards Naka-ku (central district) on the right side of the street. First, locate the traffic light intersection of Hirokoji-Dori and Egawa St (a wide street perpendicular to Hirokoji-Dori and with a flyover bridge). Now, turn around and walk back to the 2nd traffic light before the Hirokoji-Dori and Egawa intersection and turn left into the small street. Then, turn left again at the 2nd intersection you come to. Immediately on your left you can see a small building with colorful and bright ad boards. Next to this small building you see a short height concrete wall painted in yellow and next to it is an entrance with a metal gate also painted in yellow and Pancrace written on it. The glass door will open automatically as you approach. A hattenba (cruising place) with three floors of facilities include shower, TV room, dark areas, private rooms, resting area with magazines and some gym equipment. There's also a 'secret' penthouse with tatami mats. Young crowd (no entry over 40yo, ID check at the door).
NAHA (Okinawa)
Population is 300,000 (that's 12,000 Utopians).
BOFF
3-8-21Naha Makishi.
Sea Sound
3-7-8 Makishi.
Shiki
3-7-8 Makishi.
Goose Kaikan
1-7-14 Anri.
Pineapple House
4/F 2-17-44 Makishi (near Kokusai Dori). In the heart of Naha. Sauna, bath, video rooms, and dark room. Non-English speaking staff. Standard sauna etiquette (shoe locker upon entrance, purchase ticket at machine, collect towels/robe from attendant). Mostly local Okinawans from 20's-40's.
NARA
Population is 400,000 (that's about 90,000 Utopians).
Scar Face
8-35 Honmachi, Yamato-takada.
NARITA (Chiba Prefecture) -- area code (81-476)
Population is 120,000 (that's about 5,000 Utopians).
"Narita Tokyu Excel Hotel - very cruisy sauna, Japanese bath and lounge. Lots of hot airline crew and Asians. Lots of action!" -- hairybear, Mar 5, 2008
OKAYAMA -- area code (81-86)
Population is about 650,000 (that's about 16,000 Utopians).
Appointments: 080-5022-7466, email. Kakurega means "retreat" in Japanese. This masseur offers full-body massage and foot reflexology at a private and quiet space where you can restore calm and well-being. Hours are 10am-10pm.
Books Rose
2/F Nakamura Building #201, 1-21-1 Hanasakicho, Naka-ku, 261-9490, email. Gay magazines, videos, pride gifts, toys, etc. Open 12:00-03:00.
Free Man
2/F Nakamura Bld #203 (next door to Books Rose), 1-21 Hanasaki-cho, Naka-ku, 242-0721 (only Japanese spoken). New and used gay videos and gifts.