KOTA KINABALU (Sabah State) -- (60-88)

This happy-go-lucky resort town on the South China Sea is almost entirely new, having been destroyed and rebuilt following Japanese occupation in WWII. The waterfront is currently seeing another surge of development, but, luckily, buildings are height-restricted due to the close proximity of the airport. Seafood feasts, island hopping, and unspoiled nature are the main attractions in the vicinity. There is also more than a little gay life bubbling under the surface. KK is a great place for a romantic get-away with your partner or special someone, but it's also easy to make new friends with a smile.

Super cheap Asia Air flights get you here in only 2.5 hours from Kuala Lumpur so it's a great escape from the urban tangle of the capital. There are also three non-stop flights a week from Bangkok.

Muslims are in the minority in Sabah, so KK feels less uptight than West Malaysia. Respectful and properly dressed visitors may even be permitted to enter and photograph the interiors of some of the city's large mosques, a rewarding cultural experience if you have the opportunity.

KK's population is around 350,000 (that's about 15,000 Utopians). There are more than three dozen indigenous ethnic groups in Sabah, so the people here are a rainbow in themselves.

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• Men in Kota Kinabalu message forum

The updated and expanded 2nd Edition of the Utopia Guide to Malaysia surveys the gay and lesbian scene in 17 cities. Listings include gay scene maps, organizations, bars, discos, spas, accommodations, restaurants, and more. A special section highlights venues that are especially welcoming for women. Click here to order

Kota Kinabalu is easy to navigate using our Utopia map:

Click here for Kota Kinabalu hotels and accommodations.

• Magma Sports Club (mixed)
  A fun pub with a pool table and karaoke. Popular with gays.

  Q Bar 50 Gaya St, 230-722. Top marks for the world-class design of this straight-friendly gay bar (Wallpaper, are you listening?). Cozy round bar (in the shape of a "Q", of course) for optimal eye contact. Pool table. A plush Thai-style corner den for bears and pandas (greatly sought after here in Sabah), plus a 2nd comfy corner area designed for groups of friends. They take special pride in their beautiful and sparklingly clean bathrooms. Opens daily at 8pm. Easy lounge music until 10pm when it starts to get busier. DJ plays dance beats after 11pm with house music. Twenty varieties of wine on hand in the cooler. Theme parties monthly. Management and staff couldn't be friendlier. Crowd is young professional with a happy mix of ethnicities.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "My partner and I had a great time at Q Bar on our first visit to KK. There was a fun drag show on Fri night with Lola, Beth and the girls. It was hilarious. The staff and locals went out of their way to make us feel welcome. No attitude - which was so refreshing for Sydney-siders. Thanks guys, a very memorable part of our holiday!" -- Canguro, Sep 8, 2008

  "Q Bar is busiest on Sat nite. The waiters and bar attendant are friendly." -- cosmo30, Dec 15, 2007

• Shenanigans (mixed)
  B/F Hyatt Hotel. Mixed pub popular with gays, particularly Chinese.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Shenanigans is the most happening club in KK. Great live band, and also the place to see beautiful women and handsome men." -- cosmo30, Dec 15, 2007

• Upperstar (mixed)
  Jln Datuk Salleh Sulong (just opposite the foot of the Hyatt Hotel driveway). Gay clubbers rendezvous here first to fuel up on the cheap drinks before heading across the street to Shenanigans (whose drinks are very expensive by local standards). The balcony is the breezy place to people-watch.

• Anjung Senja hawker center
  Waterfront opposite the Promenade Hotel. A great place to eat and catch the eye of friendly locals at the same time. Evenings.
• Centrepoint shopping center
• Hyatt Hotel entrance
  The pedestrian pathway connecting Jln Datuk Salleh Sulong to Wisma Merdeka is very cruisy. Sit in Mosaic café at one end or hang out near the shopping mall entrance at the other end.
• Long distance bus terminal at night, transgenders
• Prince Philip Park, Tanjung Aru. Near the pond and the circle with fountain. Late night, very cruisy. Some hustler decoys.

Mosaic (Italian food, coffee, ice cream and cakes) Jln Datuk Salleh Sulong (just at the foot of the Hyatt Hotel driveway). This sleek and modern air-conditioned restaurant and café is the perfect place to cruise the foot traffic heading in and out of Wisma Merdeka while sipping a cappuccino or demolishing one of Mosaic's delicious sweet treats. Where are we again? Melbourne? South Beach? Oh, yeah, Kota Kinabalu. A stack of Gourmet magazines is on hand if you get bored, but we think you'll want to view all the Asian poetry amidst the passing parade, so grab the corner table in front of the picture windows and practice your deadliest Memoirs of a Geisha glance. Very cute and friendly staff.

• Restoran Rasa Nyonya (Nyonya and traditional)
  G/F 50 Jln Gaya, 218-092. This local place serves up tasty authentic peninsular cuisine. Dine by 9pm as they close early. After dinner, hop over to Q Bar next door for a cocktail.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Went to TJ restaurant, which stands for The Jungle. It is located in Alam Mesra. They serve Asian/western food which is kinda cheap. I love their lamb chops. I like the atmosphere. They decorated the walls with bamboo strips and plants. Just nice to hang around there during the odd times with not many customers around. Free Wi-Fi. Try out their espresso and kasata after your meal." -- Jephostan, May 2, 2008

  "Scoops is nice place to sit and relax, but the gelato is just average for me. Veda Blue has better gelato. Olde Station at Warisan Square, next to Scoops, has a nice Peranakan and Melayu menu. Also the price is so reasonable. Popular among locals. Anjung Samudera is the best place to chat and relax with friends, especially at night time. It's my favorite place in KK. The restaurant just after the massage outlet has a great Malay menu, good food and value for money." -- cosmo30, Dec 15, 2007

  "Yup. Heard about Scoops gelato bar from my friends. I liked the place on my first visit. It was nice and relaxing on a weekday. Great hangout place for all - leisure and just conversation (not forgeting their mouth watering desserts). It's really a respectful place. Their staff were friendly and outgoing. Yeah, I can say that they're gay friendly. Also free use of Internet since there's hotspot." -- Stealth, Nov 8, 2007

  "There is a new gelato bar called Scoops. Very gay friendly. Situated in Warisan Square" -- mahesh12, Oct 10, 2007

Comments from Utopians:

"The sauna at the Hyatt Regency is definitely a cruising place. I visited on a weekday evening (they close at 10pm) and found a few gay men cuddling and kissing in the dry sauna and a group session in the wet sauna! Three shower rooms and each room can occupy two persons. But, just be discreet." -- cynerjii, Dec 31, 2007

"The sauna in the Hyatt Regency is a cruising place. Some of the customers are local gay guys. Be discreet, patrons are mixed." -- cosmo30, Dec 15, 2007

• Small gay shop on 2/F of KK plaza sells clothes and gay kitsch.