KUALA LUMPUR -- area code (60-3)

KL is a modest little city on steroids, with muscular architectural monuments and traffic jams that feel out of proportion to its winding, tree lined streets and village-like neighborhoods. Colorful and chaotic, it retains a vitality that neighboring Singapore nearly polished away in its own efforts to become Asia's Tomorrowland. But it's KL that feels like a themepark in progress. Here, you may ramble through a traditional Malay kampong in the shadow of the show-stopping twin towers; or ride the cute monorail that offers first-time visitors vistas of both construction sites and destruction sites. Half of Chinatown has been turned into a uglified pedestrian mall that feels like anywhere but Chinatown, while old and crumbling heritage shophouses nearby that were (thankfully) overlooked by civic planners still house traditional businesses that ooze with charm of days gone by. Modern, yet hand-me-down; confident, yet uptight; Asian tiger, yet conservatively colonial; butch, yet nelly: KL is the fascinating love child of visionary nation-maker Dr. Mahathir and his Mr. Hyde ego.

Gay life in the capitol is widespread and surprisingly sophisticated, but still largely underground due to lingering antique British colonial law and Islamic disapproval. Many gay businesses have morphed into creative hybrids to remain "within the pale": yogatoriums, aerobisaunas, massageaurants or spaversities with darkgyms and karaocuzzis. Mainstream businesses now openly cultivate gay and lesbian customers who loyally dispense pink ringgit at the growing number of mixed venues that welcome them. Gay or lesbian nights at straight clubs are common. And, of course, the Internet is the medium of choice for the discreet and closeted.

The population of Kuala Lumpur is about 1.5 million people (that's 60,000 Utopians just in the city proper). The Klang Valley, incorporating KL, Petaling Jaya, Subang Jaya, Putrajaya and Cyberjaya has a combined population of over 4 million (for a grand total of more than 160,000. Utopians).

• Questions about AIDS/HIV care? Current medical treatment offers a normal lifespan for those living with HIV. A Harvard-trained Physician and Infectious Disease expert in Kuala Lumpur offers compassion and strictly confidential advice about health matters and state-of-the-art HIV treatment. Email the Doctor with your questions.
• Kuala Lumpur Gay Scene Updates message forum
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The updated and expanded 2nd Edition of the Utopia Guide to Malaysia surveys the gay and lesbian scene in 17 cities. Listings include gay scene maps, organizations, bars, discos, spas, accommodations, restaurants, and more. A special section highlights venues that are especially welcoming for women. Click here to order

Comments from Utopians:

"In the last couple of years, the KL gay scene has witnessed quite a prolific and intense swell of activity led by a fast-learning commercial sector quick at the heels of the pink dollar. Newly tolerant and entrepreneurial Singapore has been a welcome contributor into the education of the Malaysian general public that gays help fuel economics and keep the retail/fashion/hospitality industries buzzing. Eager Malaysians, albeit discreet, are not to be outdone - resulting in a pronounced catering to the gay community and all the ringgit that accompanies it. Today in KL, one is rarely hard-pressed to detail lists of restaurants, bars and retail outlets that outwardly pander to the tastes and pleasures of Malaysia's thriving rainbow community. Whilst admittedly we cannot be as brazen and bold as our western counterparts when promoting gay entertainment and activities, we're certainly more liberal than some Asian countries in supporting gay life. As a result, over the last two years we've had the pleasure of experiencing the flowering of outlets and places which travelers might also find of interest." -- WildWaters, Oct 28, 2008

• Flexqstudio
  89-3 Jln 1/91, Taman Shamelin Perkasa, Cheras, 017-618-6510, 012-683-7531, email. Photography for fashion, personal and couples makeover, advertising and commercials, model portfolios, magazine and CD covers, artistic shots. Open daily. Utopia Member Discount
• Lightworks Books, Cafe & Yoga
  19 Jln Mesui (see map, off Jln Nagasari), 2143-2966, FAX 2143-2977, email. Lightworks is a gay and lesbian-friendly holistic center offering yoga classes, holistic therapies (Angel and Tarot card reading, crystal healing, spiritual response therapy, etc), plus Reiki and energy healing. Their shop also features a comprehensive selection of spiritual, gay and lesbian support books, meditation/instrumental CDs, essences and crystals. The cafe offers wholesome fare for health conscious eaters. It's a great chillout location just a few streets away from bustling Bukit Bintang where you can relax and freely be who you are. Lightworks is strictly non-denominational. Utopia Member Discount

BUKIT BINTANG / CITY CENTER

Bukit Bintang is jammed with bustling shopping centers, restaurants and many of KL's popular hotels which are right in the center of the action. The neighborhood is easy to navigate using our Utopia map:

Click here for Kuala Lumpur hotels and accommodations.

Click here for Kuala Lumpur bars and clubs.

• Kinokuniya
  KLCC. Some LGBT literature on their shelves udner Gender Studies.

Click here for Kuala Lumpur cabaret.

Click here for Kuala Lumpur discos.

• California Fitness
  3/F Lot T-011, Midvalley Megamall, Mid Valley City, 2284-3833. Cruisy gym for serious work-outs. Be discreet.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Energy Fitness Studio, 7880-3805, is about a year old. The gym is located in the convenient Dataran Glomac area, which is directly behind Giant Mall in Kelana Jaya. Parking is plentiful and free. Though quite small, the gym spans two floors - 1/F for classes and 2/F for equipment and cardio machines. Tasteful decor with plasma TVs. The place is clean and has a comfortable, tidy feel. The reception area is manned by two muscular chaps who will greet you cheerfully. The shower rooms are very nicely done. They intend to expand to a 3rd floor in the future." -- badinc, Aug 1, 2008

Click here for Kuala Lumpur karaoke.

Click here for Kuala Lumpur massage for men.

BUKIT BINTANG / KL CITY CENTER

• Bintang Walk
  See map. The whole of Jln Bukit Bintang, starting off at the Marriott Hotel right up to Lot 10 and beyond to the Jln Alor hawker food street has become KL's major hunting grounds. Marriott Café, Cesar's, Starbucks, Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, Sunset Boulevard (Planet Hollywood's Café), Piccolo Mondo, Dome Café - just to name a few of the outdoor coffee places that have sprouted along this area. Extremely cruisy and packed even before the sun sets. Appropriately nicknamed "The Catwalk.", it has a good gay audience throughout the day and into the evenings. Hook-ups even happen on the traffic islands!
• Shopping malls
  • Low Yat Plaza
    Bukit Bintang (see map). This IT mall is buzzing with young computer nerds. Yum!
  • Starhill Gallery
    This is the high-end branded goods mall so there are lots of gays around, especially the higher floors.
  • Sungei Wang Plaza
    Bukit Bintang (see map). Top floor, near the Reliance. Beware of gay pickpockets.

  CENTRAL MARKET / CHINATOWN / PUDURAYA

• Central Market
  Pasar Seni, Art and Craft Center (near the U.A. Cinema and opposite Round Table Pizza). Ground floor facilities (Malay and Indian crowd), all day long. Sidewalk next to the Klang river, also bridge overlooking the river, at night.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Central Market is still the cruisiest spot in KL. The river side walk is always cruisy at night with young and old of all races. The CM facilities, and the area around them, G/F and 1/F, are usually cruisy as well, with guys waiting for their type. Once connected they move somewhere else to chat. Eye contact is a give-away. But these are generally for ONS rather than LTR." -- Fip, May 2, 2008

  CHERAS

• Bandar Tun Razaks
  Taman Tasik Permaisuri, Cheras. There is a park called Taman Permaisuri here which is known locally as "The Lost World" to the gay community. It is next to the football stadium on a small hil behind behind the cruisy swimming pool (opposite HUKM).

  Comments from Utopians:

  "These days The Lost World is not very safe at night. There are many incidents of gays getting robbed or injured, their car windows being smashed, losing their valuables. However, you can still can see groups of gay friends hanging around at late night. So at your own risk and take appropriate precautions to protect yourself. Be alert and run away when things are not right. What can we do to make it a safe place for a nite chillout? this may be our last cruisy park at night. We lost 'Jurassic Park' to drug addicts. I hope we can preserve The Lost World as one of our gay spots as long as we can. There are many lovely stories about The Lost World. Some couples found each other there." -- jon_guy1, Apr 11, 2008

• Cheras shopping mall facilities

  PETALING JAYA

• R&R facilities, next to LDP (before the Sunway toll to Puchong, next to McD) is a cruisy place especially 5-9pm.

  OTHER AREAS

• Basketball court park
  Jln BP 1/5, Bandar Bukit Puchong, Puchong District. A cruising place for many young and old gays at night. Normally more vehicles come in after 10pm and men will have a walk in the park where they search for others. Crowd is mostly Malay/Chinese, and sometimes Caucasians. The local residents know about it but they are quite OK as long as you keep your voice down while cruising and move the fun to another location once you've connected.
• Between the old Subang International airport and Petaling Jaya. About 8km from KL City Center. Behind the Kelana Jaya Stadium, by the lake, very cruisy with more upscale locals. Malays, Chinese and few Indians. After dark till very late.
• Railway Station Park, after dark.
  Transgenders come here to meet their friends or to make new friends. Nice mixed crowd.
• Shopping malls
  • Aquaria KL
    Leading to the underground passage to KLCC, the facility there is a meeting place, especially after work.
  • Pertama Complex.
    1/F and 2/F facilities.
  • Sunway Pyramid Mall
    Near the TGV facilities and all east wing facilities. The best time for meeting people is just after working hours. Mostly Malay and Chinese with a few Indians. Also, facilities near the cinemas, bowling facilities and level LL1 facilities. Mostly Indian guys.

    Comments from Utopians:

    "Surprised to find peep holes in Bangsar SC facilities, especially G/F, with busy activities in the early evening." -- ditto, Jun 16, 2008

  • Swimming Pools
    • MPPJ pool, Kelana Jaya
      Great for cruising, especially the bathing area. A mixed crowd of young hunks to older chubs.
  • Qing Woo Stadium pool, about 15 minutes walk from Chinatown. More gays after 5pm.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Recently gays in Klang have become more pro-active. The hottest gay location is now the Pandamaran swimming pool complex. It's a new hub after Kelana Jaya Swimming pool. Mon-Fri after 7:30pm in the shower room, Sat and Sun after 7pm. Don't feel shy to get naked. Have fun." -- jerry_lust4u, Aug 20, 2008

BUKIT BINTANG / KL CITY CENTER

69 Bistro 14 Jln Kampung Dollah (see map, beside Berjaya Times Square), 2144-3369, email. This gay-owned restaurant is a living tribute to the pop 60s with its mod prints, retro-flavored furniture, vintage fabrics and several antique pieces. Horoscope and tarot card readings on occasion. Utopia Member Discount

• Café Café (European fine dining)
  175 Jln Maharajalela (a short cab ride from Bukit Bintang), 2141-8141. Gay-managed and staffed, with European styling and lots of gay and lesbian guests. Decor is high-drama with operatic curtains and a ceiling dripping with glittering crystals, yet the environment feels homey at the same time, like a well-worn Parisian artists' café. They serve both set meals and a la carte dishes. Standards are high. The charming male staff are handsomely appointed and attentive, but not over-the-top. Prices are very reasonable by international standards. Well-stocked wine list. They also serve tea in the afternoons. The perfect place for a romantic date.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "French decor and food, excellent value and superb quality." -- WildWaters, Oct 28, 2008

• The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf
  Front entrance of KL Plaza. Another gay hang-out.
• Coffee Klub
  Plaza Berjaya, Jln Imbi. Coffee specialties, and snacks like satés and noodles. Owner welcomes all PLUs, especially chubs and their admirers.
• Dome Café
  G/F Lot 10, at the corner of Bukit Bintang and Jln Sultan Ismail (see map), 2144-3001. Probably the most happening meeting place on Bintang Walk. The gay crowd hangs here at any hour on weekends or on weekday evenings. The food is standard but the location offers lots of eye candy. Have a cuppa here and cruise two major streets at one time.
• Lecka Lecka
  Look for the large licking red lips on the sidewalk outside KL Plaza (see map). This al fresco café serves up gelato and a nice dose of chill-out music. Sit on the cushy red seats set amidst twinkling candles to watch the nightly parade of passersby. Open and hopping until the wee hours.
• Palate Palette Restaurant & Bar (international)
  21 Jln Mesui (see map, off Jln Nagasari), 2142-2148, 012-226-1237, FAX 2143-2148, email. This funky and colorful two-storey restaurant and bar is secretly tucked away between Changkat Bukit Bintang and Jln Raja Chulan. The inventive menu is packed with playful delights like "chicken lollipops" and "deconstructed carrot cake." Dine, drink or snooze (their garden patio was voted one of KL's best places to take a nap!) surrounded by quirky furniture and artful murals. Gay and lesbian-friendly. Closed Mon. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Good, mixed crowd. A great place for a drink." -- WildWaters, Oct 28, 2008

• Shook! (Asian and European)
  B/F Starhill Gallery (see map), 2719-8535. Trendy and stylish restaurant in the basement of Bukit Bintang's high-end glam mall is popular with local and visiting gays (duh!). Live music in the atrium.
• Starbucks
  Starhill Gallery (see map), Jln Bukit Bintang (opposite the Regent Hotel). Cruisy.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Sentidos Tapas is serving Spanish tapas and wine. Very gay friendly and tucked away for those who prefer discretion. Located at Starhill's Feast Village floor." -- sexinkl, Apr 24, 2008

  "I want to recommend an awesome restaurant -- gay friendly, very gay clientele -- called Relish. It's located at Cangkat Bukit Bintang, conviniently across from Frangipani. Awesome food and reasonable drink prices for the area. Lots of Expats and the same crowd as Frangipani. Great terrace to people-watch on Fri evenings." -- fazznyc, Jan 7, 2007

  CENTRAL MARKET / CHINATOWN / PUDURAYA

• Be My Friend Café next to the cinema in the Central Market.

  CHERAS

• BJBS Café
  G/F 115 Jl 3/93, Taman Miharja Cheras. This cafe is a meeting and cruising point for local PLUs. Nice, friendly environment.

  CHOW KIT

• AJ (Malay traditional cuisine)
  50 Jln Lumut (off Jln Ipoh, not far from OTOT² sauna), 4044-8888, email. Dynamic duo, AJ and Ryu, are the super-Daddy couple who run this colorful and tasty restaurant. The decor is bright and bubbly, showcasing their collection of bears, Swatch watches, and Japanese beckoning cats. Retro Malay pop music accents the huge buffet spread of outstanding home-made traditional Malay curries, veggies, and specialties which you heap onto a plate of rice. Try the durian and barley porridge or the bananas in coconut cream for dessert.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "I went to AJ. It is really a fine place to visit. A wide menu with authentic local cuisine and two very kind, friendly and helpful proprietors, who went out of their way to ensure that my visit to KL was a good one." -- williamr, Apr 3, 2008

  PETALING JAYA

• Restaurant Syed
  Kelana Jaya. Located along the same row as Giant Supermarket. Open 24 hours and cruising is best from 10pm till late morning. Gay-friendly, safe and the place to be out and seen. The crowd ranges from 18-40.

  OTHER AREAS

• Rahsia Bistro & Wine Bar
  (Penang-Nyonya and international)
  13 Jln Damai, (off Jln Aman/Tun Razak, near Crown Princess Hotel/Empire Tower), 2142-5555, 2142-0059, email. Rahsia feels like a well-kept secret (the name means "secret" in Malay). This gorgeous hideaway is housed in a converted garden bungalow surrounded by nature, yet with a twinkling backdrop of city lights rising into the sky beyond. The ambience is invigoratingly peaceful, yet stylish: ethnic charm meets cosmopolitan chic. The menu offers an eclectic mix of contemporary Asian and nouveau international cuisine, plus fine wines to enjoy in their private, but friendly, atmosphere. Music is an eclectic blend of jazz, gamelan and a bit of Bowie thrown in for good measure. Closed Sun. Utopia Member Discount
• Rebung
  4-2 Lorong Maarof, Bangsar Park, 2283-2119. This friendly, rainbow-hued restaurant is a great place to sample traditional Malay food. Celebrity Chef Ismail and staff prepare a huge buffet of local dishes and sweet treats. Spice-lovers will be happy to know that these are authentic dishes that don't shy away from the satisfying, sweat-inducing heat of chilies (there are mild dishes as well if you are a pepper-phobe). Lots of celebs and trendy locals as well as down-home folks who just love the local flavors. Live Malay music outside.
• San Francisco Coffee
  G21, G/F Lot 10 (see map), Jln Sultan Ismail, 8889-2732. A nice place to hang out with friends for their famous coffee and some pasta to boot.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Banquet in Bangsar Village 2 has the same gay owners who started Café Café. Essentially a mixed crowd, but not short on gay clientelle. Nero Vivo is an Italian place with a mixed crowd not lacking in gays. Alexis at The Gardens, Mid Valley has a mixed crowd, but has long been a favourite for gays for its great food, vast selection of wines and to-die-for desserts." -- WildWaters, Oct 28, 2008

Click here for Kuala Lumpur saunas for men.

BUKIT BINTANG / KL CITY CENTER

• Ranz Hair and MakeUp Studio and Academy
  201A Jln Imbi (see map), 016-674-2360, email. Located opposite the Ritz Carlton Hotel. A gay-owned academy offering professional courses for hairdressing and make-up. Four-month professional hairdressing or make-up courses with certificate given after completion. Friendly environment. Utopia Member Discount

  CHERAS

• Matahari
  11-1 Menara Belfield, 77 Jln Talala (near Kakiku), 012-231-3152, email. Indoor tanning and nail salon with lots of gay clientele.

  OTHER AREAS

• The Healing Touch
  Block B6-09-01, Pandan Mewah Heights (next to Pandan Indah), Jln Pandan Mewah, Pandan Mewah, Selangor, appointments: 012-399-4288, email. Gay-friendly reiki energy healing for relaxation and health. Reiki is a Japanese form of qi or chi energy healing. It is a touch-therapy which entails the (non-sexual) laying of hands on the front and back of the body, through which energy is transferred. The Reiki therapy is very relaxing, energizing and refreshing. It is also very good for improving one's vitality. In or outcall. Strictly professional service. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Small DVD shop next to Blue Boy has high quality DVDs that you can choose by looking thru a mobile phone screen. Also, Plaza Damas upstairs opposite Starbucks (but you need to know people to get in). Private Structure at Bangsar Village 2 is a Malaysian-owned undergear shop with great designs. Philosophy is gay owned, with interesting clothes and a good selection of swimwear. Club Monaco at at The Gardens, Mid Valley offers high fashion and trendy clothes." -- WildWaters, Oct 28, 2008

  "The PLU-friendly DVD shop that used to be in Low Yat Plaza has moved to E-1-8 Plaza Damas, 60 Jlan Sri Hartamas 1, Sri Hartamas. This shop is on 1/F and is very discreet. There is no signboard, just ring the doorbell to gain admittance." -- yinghuantang, Apr 30, 2007

  "The gay friendly shop selling DVDs formerly at Low Yat Plaza has moved to Plaza Damas. Called Rainbow Circle, it has very good security." -- c-va, Apr 1, 2007