XIAN (Shaanxi Province) -- area code (86-29)

Xian (often spelled as Xi'an and pronounced "she ahn") was the ancient imperial capital of China for over 11 centuries. Much of this history remains buried, either literally -- in the dirt surrounding regal burial mounds which dot the rural countryside -- or amidst the sky-rise development that has swallowed much of the city. Yet Xian's public spaces and charming alleyways manage to appear more authentically "Chinese" than Beijing's grandiose plazas and avenues. The old Muslim Quarter is particularly colorful and worth exploring on foot. Yes, the air is smoggy, but so was Los Angeles up until the late 1980s.

The population is nearing 7 million (so about a quarter million Utopians live here).

If you don't have a local to tour you to the gay bars and hangouts, it's better to have an English-translated map of the city. Try the Xi'an Foreign Language Bookstore located in Dong Dajie (East St) in downtown. Your landmark is the big Li-Ning sports store in front. Go inside the store, walk to the end then go up the stairs to 3/F and 4/F where you will find the English maps and books.

Terracotta Comrades

Xian is home to 36 universities and a multitude of software colleges and companies. It's not surprising that local gays are Internet savvy and that email addresses have replaced phone numbers in bathroom graffiti. Many gays meet via QQ chat and messaging. Sad to say, locals here offer the same warnings as in Beijing: bars, saunas and cruising areas are often the haunts of handsome and particularly rough trade who will lie, cheat and steal. Use common sense when chatting up a new friend.
• Lesbian listings
• Men in Xian message forum
• Xian Gay Scene Updates message forum

  Navigating the local gay scene is easy with our interactive Utopia Map of Gay & Lesbian Xian (special thanks to radialhead!):

The Utopia Guide to China (2nd Edition) is an expanded and updated guidebook to the gay and lesbian scene in 50 Chinese cities including Beijing, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, and Shanghai. Included are bars, discos, spas, and restaurants. Enjoy hundreds of savvy comments and recommendations from local Utopians and travelers. Click here to order

ChinaMango 135-5294-9596, email. Gay and lesbian-friendly, professional licensed tour guides in Xi'an. Discreet, individual tours for discerning travelers. Day and night tours. Customize a tour for you and your friends at no extra cost. Explore each city's best places for eating, shopping and nightlife. Speedy reply with helpful advice and itinerary suggestions. Utopia Member Discount

• 1+1 Club (mixed)
  Dong Da Jie (opposite the Royal Hotel), Utopia Map. The locals call it Yi Jia Yi. A two-floor club divided into three sections: a dance area always packed with young party people and DJ spinning hip hop/R&B/electronica beats; a lounge/chill section located at the back where people are better dressed and drink more expensive booze (dancing occurs here intermittently in the space between tables); and a pool area where guests sit in lounge chairs and tables to rest their feet or ears from the pulsating club (people here usually order coffee or tea). Navigating the club is tricky at first as there are several stairs and passageways leading to all three sections. There are a lot of attendants to help you find your way though. Crowded even on weekdays.
• Club 21
  21 East Lane 6, Heping Rd, Utopia Map, 8744-5455. On the 6th Rd of Heping Lu, a block away from Yue Gong bar. Cabaret show. Friendly staff. Young, friendly local crowd.
• If Love Bar
  Utopia Map. Walking distance from Dong Dajie. Small and uncrowded drinking bar owned by a gay couple.
• Ying Di Jiu Ba
  Located on the Taibaoji Xiang, inside Zhu Qu Men, Utopia Map, 8762-6676. On Xida Jie (West St), Taibaoji Xiang is the first major road with a street light, directly fronting the big Parksons store. Ying Di is on the right side going to Zhuquemen (Zhuque Gate), almost near the city wall and beside the big Ladyman Hotel (no kidding). The bar facade and door entrance is small and the sign is in Chinese, but look for the multi-colored lit telephone number posted outside. Pronounced "Indy." Smaller than Yue Gong, but with the same entertainment format. It has betting games towards the end of the show, in which customers pay Y$10 to open a small box that might contain prizes ranging from free beers, snacks or prize money (this gets a little tiring as the owner coaxes people to bet and there are 90+ little boxes waiting to be opened). Busiest on weekends. 营地 酒吧, 太保吉巷

  Comments from Utopians:

  "The second most popular gay bar in terms of guest attendance. Nice party crowd. When people are not in Yue Gong, they're here." -- radialhead, May 20, 2009

• Xi Jing
  Xibei 3 Lu in the northwest area, inside the city wall, Utopia Map. The host is a hot dancer!
• Yue Gong (Moon Palace)
  Dong 7 Dao Xiang, Utopia Map. Yue Gong is on the left side, a couple of meters from Heping Lu. The bar sign is in orange lights, but in Chinese characters. However, it has the only Heineken and Budweiser signs outside its door on that street. Drag show, comedy skits and singers start to entertain nightly beginning 10:30pm until after midnight. Dancing follows, but music is limited to Chinese pop dance tunes. Mostly young crowd with lots of friendly guys. Foreigners also frequent this bar.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "The most popular gay bar in Xian as it always has a sizeable crowd even on weekdays. Since early 2008, it has moved to this new location, now inside the city wall." -- radialhead, May 20, 2009

Mr Strong Massage Appointments: (0) 137-9536-9578, email. Gay-managed 24-hour outcall massage by male therapists. Chinese, Thai and oil massage. They offer a number of massage styles and masseurs are young and strong. See their website for real masseurs who are available to give you quality service in your hotel or home. Utopia Member Discount

• Qiang Wei Zu Yu
  Qiang Wei Hotel (topmost floor), Utopia Map. Look for the big Parkson's Store on Dong Dajie which is directly in front of the Datayshi bus station. On Dong Dajie, from the Zhong Lou (Bell Tower), Datayshi Station is the 3rd station going to Dongmen (East Gate). Immediately beside Parkson's is Shangjian Lu. Walk along that street until you get to Dong 1 Lu and you will see the hotel on your right. It's in the same building as 7 Days Inn. Go inside the lobby, straight to the elevators to the topmost floor.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Foot massage is Y$40-60, while the whole body oil massage is Y$130-150, but sometimes can be negotiated down to Y$100. All the masseurs will be paraded to your room for your picking, all of which are young-looking and some look hot. The massage will be in a private air-conditioned room with a toilet. You have to ask a local to come with you as the manager hardly speaks English." -- radialhead, May 20, 2009

  Xian Star Male Massage (0)151-1889-0336 (English and Chinese), email. Gay-owned massage business. Handsome, friendly Chinese masseurs offering relaxing massage for men. Outcall only. Utopia Member Discount

• Bell Tower Post Office Square.
• City Wall outer park and public facilities, between the city wall and its moat, are places to meet up with non-scene Chinese gays. Nightly, when the city wall lights are turned off or before the park closes at 9-10pm. People congregate around the public facilities and then follow you inside if interested. The one near the West Gate is particularly outrageous at night, as are the secluded bushes nearby.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "A lot of cruisers in the area, but are mostly comprised of unattractive guys. Local gays said this was the place to hunt but deserted it when the city installed the wall lights four years ago. Be careful as muggings/robberies have been known to take place. Your best place for hook-ups is still the gay bars." -- radialhead, May 20, 2009

• Zhong Lou crossroad
  At night. Many gays. Beware of hustlers.

• De Fa Chang (dumplings)
  Bell Tower Square, Utopia Map, 721-4060, 721-4065. Inside the city walls, in the Chinese-style building opposite the Bell Tower Hotel. Cheap, delicious steamed dumplings (a family-sized portion for just a dollar!) in more than 180 varieties from folk style to royal court. Great view of the imposing Bell Tower. This is a good alternative if you worry about the lack of cleanliness at street-side restaurants. Second branch a little further down the street.
• Hao Li Lai Cake World
  2/F at the intersection of Food St and Big East St.
• Muslim Quarter.
  Utopia Map. Try a bowl (or two) of Xian-style "paomoa" noodles in a delicious soup of tender beef strips and tiny chopped pieces of bread pancake. Fresh-grilled skewers of lamb and other delicacies are available everywhere.
• Xian Hotel Restaurant
  He Pin Rd, opposite the corner of the Hyatt Regency Hotel (this is a branch, not the one at Xian Hotel!). Large, cafeteria-style place where you can easily point and order from a huge selection of Shaanxi provincial cuisine. Great noodles, soups and other mystery dishes. One cart is filled with large glass jars that look like they were purloined from a biology lab, filled with medicinal (read: libido-enhancing) liquor infused with snakes, scorpions, and other intriguing ingredients.

• Bei Ou Guan
  123 Dong Xin Jie, Utopia Map, 8743-7015, email. Men's sauna situated opposite to Industrial and Commercial Bank, 50m east of Dong Xin Jie Night Market and within 100m of Xiao Dong Dung Men in Xian City. Difficult to find primarily because it has absolutely no signage in front. Clean, comfortable, and good service. You enter a small room, pay at the cashier near the main door, deposit your shoes at the counter then your things in a locker. Medium-sized towels provided. Immediately after the locker area are stairs going to B/F where the rest of the sauna is located. There are about 8 big-sized beds/sofas that customers use to lie down to watch a large TV. Go straight and you'll find a dimly lit shower area with hot and cold water. Go to the left and you'll find about five cabins with beds. Free tea and drinking water. Feel at home without disturbance where you may relax and make new friends. Bus routes: 10(903), 14, 22, 32, 33, 46, 232, 309, 502, 527, 606, 706, 710, 721. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Bei Ou Guan sauna is to be recommended. No difficulty to find. The staff were friendly and the atmosphere was peaceful, non-threatening and relaxed. A tip: the cute guys who are all wearing underpants are definitely moneyboys, the regular patrons wear towels. Lots of nice men in their mid 30s. That suited me fine!" -- JayCool, Feb 21, 2010

  "There were not a lot people when I visited. There is no steam bath or bathing pool. MBs were the only cute guys there." -- radialhead, May 20, 2009