XIAN (Shaanxi Province) -- area code (86-29)

Xian (often spelled as Xi'an and pronounced "she ahn") was the ancient imperial capital of China for over 11 centuries. Much of this history remains buried, either literally -- in the dirt surrounding regal burial mounds which dot the rural countryside -- or amidst the sky-rise development that has swallowed much of the city. Yet Xian's public spaces and charming alleyways manage to appear more authentically "Chinese" than Beijing's grandiose plazas and avenues. The old Muslim Quarter is particularly colorful and worth exploring on foot. Yes, the air is smoggy, but so was Los Angeles up until the late 1980s.

The population is nearing 7 million (so about a quarter million Utopians live here).

Terracotta Comrades

Xian is home to 36 universities and a multitude of software colleges and companies. It's not surprising that local gays are Internet savvy and that email addresses have replaced phone numbers in bathroom graffiti. Sad to say, locals here offer the same warnings as in Beijing: bars, saunas and cruising areas are often the haunts of handsome and particularly rough trade who will lie, cheat and steal. Use common sense when chatting up a new friend.
• Lesbian listings
• Men in Xian message forum
• Xian Gay Scene Updates message forum

The Utopia Guide to China (2nd Edition) is an expanded and updated guidebook to the gay and lesbian scene in 50 Chinese cities including Beijing, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, and Shanghai. Included are bars, discos, spas, and restaurants. Enjoy hundreds of savvy comments and recommendations from local Utopians and travelers. Click here to order

• 1+1 Club (mixed)
  Dong Da Jie (opposite the Royal Hotel). The locals call it Yi Jia Yi.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "1+1 opened up a new annex in May. The entrance is on the left side of the the original 1+1. The annex one of Xian's hottest hangouts. The crowd is mixed." -- singslave, Nov 20, 2006

• Club 21
  21 East Lane 6, Heping Lu (Peace Rd), 8744-5455. On the 6th Road of Heping Lu. The roads are marked 1 through to 12. Cabaret show. Young, friendly local crowd.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "I went to Club 21 yesterday. It was cool, but very crowded." -- singslave, Mar 11, 2006

  "I went to Club 21 towards the end of Sep and it was really good. Friendly crowd of locals. They have a very amusing cabaret show. Not too hard to find." -- InDeeper, Nov 1, 2004

• Cool LaLa Club (mixed)
  Big South St. Take bus #603 or 608 and get off at the South Belltower Station.
• Tian Yue Gong (Day Night Palace)
  On the south side of the intersection of Huan Cheng Lu and Wen Yi Lu, just outside of Wen Chang Men (Wen Chang Gate). Note: there's a KTV with the same name. The gay bar is in the next building (south) of the KTV. It's a bit tricky to get into -- you have to go into the building and take the steps to the basement on the left side. Similar to Club 21, but more spacious.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Tian Yue Gong is relatively easy to locate across Wen Chang Men, at the junction of Wen Yi Lu and Huan Cheng Nan Lu. It's the largest GBLT hangout in Xian and I believe almost every cab driver knows this bar." -- singslave, Feb 25, 2007

• Ying Di Jiu Ba
  Located on the Tai Bao Ji Xiang, inside Zhu Qu Men (朱雀门). Pronounced "Indy," it is a gay hangout. There are not many "Di" bars (indy underground bars) in Xian and they all have the same format of cabaret shows from 10:30pm to midnight followed by dancing till 2-3am. 营地 酒吧, 太保吉巷

  Comments from Utopians:

  "There's a club call Salsa (Sa-Sa in Chinese) that has opened up at Parkson's Mall on Xi Da Jie. The entrance is in front of the gate to the old Moslem quarters. The crowd is mixed. The floor manager is gay and very friendly. For tips, you can talk to him in Chinese. He's usually roaming about and milling with partiers." -- singslave, Sep 12, 2007

  "There's Baby Face located inside Xian's Nan Da Jie (inside Nan Men). The crowd is mixed and on weekends to get a table you will need to spent a minimum of Y$300. The place is packed after 11om. The S.O.S. Bar at Xi Wu Lu is an older bar. Live performances with very friendly people. Mixed crowd. No No Bar on Dong Mu Tou Shi (东木头市), immediately off the right side of Nan Da Jie when you are coming from the south wall and facing the Bell Tower, is a mixed bar." -- singslave, Nov 18, 2006

Mr Strong Massage Appointments: (0) 137-9536-9578, email. Gay-managed 24-hour outcall massage by male therapists. Foot reflexology, Chinese, Thai and oil massage. They offer a number of massage styles and their masseurs are young and strong. Utopia Member Discount

Xian Star Male Massage Appointments: 158-2988-8354 (English and Chinese), email. Gay-owned massage business. Handsome, friendly Chinese masseurs offering relaxing massage for men. Outcall only. Utopia Member Discount

• Bell Tower Post Office Square.
• Zhong Lou crossroad
  At night. Many gays. Beware of hustlers.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "The gardens between the city walls and its moat are places to meet up with non-scene Chinese gays. People congregate around the public toilet areas and then follow you inside if interested. The one near the West Gate is particularly outrageous at night, as are the secluded bushes nearby." -- JoshJack, May 24, 2008

• De Fa Chang
  Bell Tower Square, 721-4060, 721-4065. Inside the city walls, in the Chinese-style building opposite the Bell Tower Hotel. Cheap, delicious steamed dumplings (a family-sized portion for just a dollar!) in more than 180 varieties from folk style to royal court. Great view of the imposing Bell Tower. This is a good alternative if you worry about the lack of cleanliness at street-side restaurants. Second branch a little further down the street.
• Hao Li Lai Cake World
  2/F at the intersection of Food St and Big East St.
• Muslim Quarter.
  Try a bowl (or two) of Xian-style "paomoa" noodles in a delicious soup of tender beef strips and tiny chopped pieces of bread pancake. Fresh-grilled skewers of lamb and other delicacies are available everywhere.
• Xian Hotel Restaurant
  He Pin Rd, opposite the corner of the Hyatt Regency Hotel (this is a branch, not the one at Xian Hotel!). Large, cafeteria-style place where you can easily point and order from a huge selection of Shaanxi provincial cuisine. Great noodles, soups and other mystery dishes. One cart is filled with large glass jars that look like they were purloined from a biology lab, filled with medicinal (read: libido-enhancing) liquor infused with snakes, scorpions, and other intriguing ingredients.

• Bei Ou Guan (Sauna and Bath House)
  123 Dong Xin Jie, 8743-7015, email. Men's sauna situated opposite to Industrial and Commercial Bank, 50m east of Dong Xin Jie Night Market and within 100m of Xiao Dong Dung Men in Xian City. Clean, comfortable, elegant, and good service. Facilities include lockers with double locks, multi channel plasma TV, European-style steam bath with harmonic music, a number of Japanese cubicles, free tea and drinking water. Bathing pool water comes from hot springs 2,100m deep in the ground. Feel at home without disturbance where you may relax and make new friends. Bus routes: 10(903), 14, 22, 32, 33, 46, 232, 309, 502, 527, 606, 706, 710, 721. Utopia Member Discount
• Gan Lin Yuan
  Xing Huo Lu (Star Fire Rd) at West Zi Qiang Rd. Gay sauna with showers, steam, massage, large resting lounge, and 10 private cabins. Y$15 (or Y$30 for overnight stay). Mostly younger crowd.
• Ming De
  8545-3795. A little far from downtown, close to TV tower, in a large residential zone called Ming De Men zone that taxi drivers know. Or, take #713 bus, get off in Ming De station, turn to the north and go 100 meters, on the right side of the road, and you will find it (on the left side is a little school). Gay sauna, not well furnished or very clean, but lots of fun. Young crowd.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Tao has provided a reasonable description below however this might help things. When you are on the main Ming De Men Rd after getting off the 713 bus, look for the Construction Bank (big red sign). If you are facing towards the main town of Xian turn left along the side of the bank. The bank is just north of the Ming De Men bus stop on the main road. About 400m on the left you will see the Communication Bank with a blue sign. Turn right following down the side of the bank. The Sauna is about 100m on the right, nearly the last building before you turn right into a residential complex. It has a blue sign above the door. There are some small steps up and a reception desk on the right. Stairs lead to the Sauna. Make it clear to the guy behind the desk that you want to go upstairs." -- InDeeper, Nov 1, 2004

  "It is a little hard to find Ming De sauna, because it is not located in downtown or on a big street. Just tell the taxi driver you would go to Ming De Men, then get off when you can see the blue logo of the Communication Bank, go along the bank to the north, over 100 meters, you will find the sauna. You will get the key, soap and shampoo in service desk in the first floor, then go up stairs to start your exploring. The staff don't speak English. You pay when you leave. Don't expect too much of the environment, it's a little dirty, but fun." -- Tao, Sept 20, 2004

• Xing Hua Yu
  8526-1823. Take bus #713 or 401 and get off at Yang Jia Cun Station.