PHNOM PENH -- area code (855-23)

Phnom Penh is provincial in atmosphere: no high-rises, lots of old French architecture tucked away on side streets, and the roads are packed with scooters. The capitol city is crowned by the pretty gardens and evocative structures of its Grand Palace. Residents gather by the riverside to watch street magic, to munch fresh snacks, or to promenade along its banks in the cool of late day. Shady temple courtyards bekon, as do mobile phone sales booths which dot the city streets, covered in sequences of lucky numbers, like monuments of mystical numerologists.

Visit the National Museum, whose superb Khmer treasures radiate magic as you wander its galleries in the slight fever heat of the day. Just outside, vendors display lurid florescent paintings on black velvet or scaled-down versions of Angkor sculptures destined for decorative nooks around the globe.

Darker history ripples below every surface, emerging as a cloud of bats at dusk. Children patiently re-trace classical dance gestures, nearly lost to time and war, but threaded into the very blood and soul of Cambodians.

The population of the capital city is over 1 million (that's about 40,000 Utopians).

• Men in Phnom Penh message forum

The Utopia Guide to Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar & Vietnam offers a remarkable insider's glimpse at the gay and lesbian scene in 14 cities in four emerging Southeast Asian countries, including Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon, Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Yangon/Rangoon, Phnom Penh, and Angkor Wat/Siem Reap. Listings include organizations, bars, discos, accommodations, spas, restaurants, and more. Enjoy savvy comments and recommendations from local Utopians, as well as gay travelers. Click here to order the collector's First Edition

Purple Dragon 119/5-10 Surawong Rd, Bangkok, (662) 238-3227, FAX (662) 634-0292, email. Asia's oldest and largest gay tour company offers hundreds of options using local English-speaking guides throughout Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, Myanmar (Burma), India, China, Singapore and Bhutan. Specializes in programs focusing on culture, cuisine, adventure and aesthetic improvement programs. Utopia Member Discount

Click here for Phnom Penh hotels and accommodations.

• Blue Chilli Pub
  St 178 (next to National Museum), email. Openly gay and lesbian-friendly bar, where the guys are not only handsome, but charming. Dance with their DJ into the early hours. Also, try their intimate Blue Room. Drag show every Fri and Sat night at 11pm. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Blue Chilli Pub, always a favorite, is now doing a regular show on Fri nights. Deedee and Oak do an extraordinary arty show on top of the bar which will make you roar with laughter and also appreciation for the talent. Not to be missed. Oak, the Thai barman/owner, really loves his guests and makes you feel very welcome." -- top8guy, Nov 12, 2008

  "Blue Chilli Pub is very fun. The owners/management do their best to make you feel welcome, not only at their place - but to Cambodia as a whole. The local guys are also very warm and friendly. A great place to hang out." -- tip68, Dec 8, 2007

• Equinox (mixed)
  3E St 278, 012-586-139. Gay-owned and gay-friendly. Pool tables, upstairs bar, live music, art exhibitions and even original clothing and accessories.
• Green Flame (mixed)
  #30 Street 19 (next to Norton University). They serve good Vietnamese coffee and snacks, with an extensive range of cocktails and eclectic music. A good spot to sit back and watch the busy street scene.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Green Flame is now in a new location. They have a nice drag show every Thu and Fri." -- fire, Jul 5, 4008 "A nice chill bar set back admidst bamboo trees and foliage. A cosy place to meet up with friends, watch the busy streetscape or just chat with the friendly staff. It also plays host to some interesting gay and lesbian parties." -- raztinger, May 29, 2008

  "A cosy café-bar set back from the busy street. One can sit back admist green bamboo, knock back a couple of beers and contemplate a wonderful cross-section of life. Green Flame serves pretty good Vietnamese coffee and bites. It has an extensive list of cocktails and is open 7pm till late. Lesbians, gay guys, expats, and travelers sit, chat and muse. It can be a nice venue to chill down, grab a bite after the hard dancing or just watch the world pass. Travelers wanting to find out about the gay scene of Phnom Penh can ask the handsome owner behind the bar. They also host parties for the gay and lesbian community. A nice selection of R&B, jazz, folk-pop, chillout and trance." -- fire, Dec 7, 2007

  "A mixed café bar. It is very gay friendly. The owner is charming, warm and knowledgeable. Open 7pm until late. A good place to chill out after heavy dancing at the Heart of Darkness." -- raztinger, Nov 24, 2007

• Monsoon Wine Bar (mixed)
  #17, Street 104, 012-214-973, email. This gay and lesbian-friendly wine bar is intimate, air-conditioned, and offers a great selection of international wines by the glass/bottle. Also, nibble from their selection of divine Pakistani dishes. Cool tunes, guest DJs. Utopia Member Discount
• Pow-Pow's Coffee House and Bar
  172 House #10, 092-529-245, email. gay-owned. A quiet, charming gay-owned bar that serves fine coffee and pastry in the morning hours and from 5pm-closing. They serve beers from around the world and mixed cocktails.
• Salt Lounge
  No. 217, Street 136 (near the river), 012-289-905, email. Gay Khmer owned and operated bar located in the heart of Phnom Penh river district. Reasonably priced cocktails and spirits. Couches and lounge chairs for maximum comfort. Beats include all the best lounge and funky house, with a mixture of Khmer and western pop. Friendly local gay guys. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Salt Lounge is a friendly hangout." -- utipaka, Dec 10, 2007

• Soho 2 (mixed)
  3 Street 118 Riverside (off Sisovath Quay Blvd), email. A lot of gays go here as an alternative to The Heart of Darkness which is a block away. Good music. Open nightly until 2am.
• Talking to a Stranger (mixed)
  House 21b, Street 294, 012-798-530. Gay-friendly garden bar. Staff are very friendly. There are regular musical events, live music and DJs. Also serving good western soul-food (bread and butter pudding like Mum used to make). Closed Mon.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Talking to a Stranger has moved and now has bigger premises and a better drink selection. Same gay-friendly owners and great staff. Bi-weekly quiz on Tue. Roast lamb dinners every Thu." -- talkinpp, Jan 29, 2008

• Tonle Sap
  Located along the river, near Wat Phnom. Go here for traditional Cambodian music and local gay men and beautiful transgenders. Dark and cruisy. Easy to approach the locals sitting at tables in groups.
• VIP Guest House Bar
  252 Street 107 (near Capitol Guest House), 012-894-636, email. Gay bar and guesthouse.

• Classic
  Behind the Grand Palace. A local disco geared mainly towards local Cambodian transgender and their admirers.
• The Gloryhole
  The Pontoon Boat, Sisowat Quay, (riverside, at the end of St 108, opposite the Night Market), 099-212-533, 017-682-071, email. A gay dance club on Thu nights from 9pm until late. A taste of London gay nightlife comes to Phnom Penh. Spectacular drag shows and sexy beats from London House DJs. Crowd is a mix of expats, in-the-know tourists and local Khmer gays. The Pontoon is a moored floating boat on the Tonle Sap river. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "I was there on opening night and a surprisingly fair-sized crowd danced away to the tunes provided by their London DJs Dockyard Doris and Vagina Dentata. Cabaret surprised everyone by being very professional and extremely glamourous. The bar had quite a few drink offers and specials and the locals were very friendly and up for a party. A dance kind of crowd. It deserves to grow and develop and get bigger every week. If you're around, show your support!" -- punkflameboy, Nov 1, 2008

• The Heart of Darkness (mixed)
  26 Street 51 Pasteur. Gay-owned and fun place that is popular with both local and expat gays. Beware of hustlers (in the minority). Packed on weekends and always busy.
• River House Lounge Bar (mixed)
  Nice looking place with a colonial style ambience. Not especially gay but good music.
• U2 (mixed)
  On Mao Tse Tung Blvd. Flashy, large disco populated by middle class Khmer and Khmer-Americans. Good drag shows. Dark and cruisy. Busiest on weekends.

• KhmerTown
  34E1 Street 306, Boeng Keng Kong, Chamkamorn, 012-202-703, 016-284-334, email. A cozy, gay-friendly place that offers an aromatherapy massage for total relaxation. Young, cute male therapists. Whole-body massage, from head to toe and front to back. Outcall service is also available.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "I visited this hard-to-find place. It was clean, friendly and welcoming. Great selection of masseurs, not all good looking. My massuer was very cute. Average massage that was no longer than 45 minutes. US$20 was the rate." -- johnb66, Oct 29, 2008

  "The place was cozy and very welcoming, but it lacked one basic necessity: hot shower or at least a warm towel sponge off after. How can you remove the oil from your skin in a cold shower? And who dares to have cold shower after a massage? Also there were only two choices for massage oil: rose and jasmine - both of which I didn't like. And there was no massage menu, only oil massage for US$10. The macho-acting masseur who massaged me had very light fingers, I almost did not feel the pressure. After 30 minutes he asked me if I wanted massah piseh - special massage for $20 more. I declined. I left after 45 minutes smelling like rose and with oil on my skin. But of course, this is Cambodia, and this is the first gay massage place in Phnom Penh." -- Traveller123, Sep 17, 2008

• Romantic Gay's Spa
  See listing under Saunas.

• Royal Palace vicinity.

• Bougainvillier (Khmer and fine French cuisine)
  277 Sisowath Quay, 220-528, FAX 220-529, email. A gay and lesbian-friendly restaurant located in a boutique hotel on the river front in the tourist area, 2 minutes from the Royal Palace and National Museum. Khmer and fine French cuisine from the French chef (homemade foie gras, fish and Argentinean beef). Utopia Member Discount
• K-West (contemporary Asian/European cuisine)
  Sisowath Quay at the corner of Street 154 (below Amanjaya Pancam Hotel), 023-214-4747, email. Upscale.
• The Riverhouse (French)
  Sisowath Quay (corner of Street 110), 023-212-3929, email. Very nice, friendly and liberal-minded management. Great food. Dancing Friday, Saturday. Live bands, Sunday. Open 4pm until late.
• Two Fish Studio (Asian and western)
  2D Street 302, 016-368-700. Gallery space; art and Chinese calligraphy classes; coffee and juices; lunch and dinner parties; meeting and workshop space. Gay-owned and operated by Taiwanese-born painter, David Huang, and his partner. Much of the cooking has been inspired by David’s Mum’s home cooking. View the art while sampling goodies from their menu. Open 11am­5pm (closed Sun and Mon). Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "Two Fish Gallery Café in Phnom Penh is excellent. It is located in a lovely house and serves delicous food and beverages. The waiters are handsome and friendly." -- sydmark, Apr 3, 2007

  Comments from Utopians:

  "As a longtime resident of Phnom Penh I get around to lots of venues. Some get boring fast, and some I just keep going back to. Fusion (51 and 130 near Psah Thmei) is a stylish Thai-Khmer restaurant with excellent food, and good prices. It's not a gay place (although I often see couples and groups of guys there), just a good restaurant. When you are at the Central Market drop in as it's the only smart place in the area." -- top8guy, Mar 26, 2007

• AMAM Cafe & Spa
  20A St 390, 012-950-916, email. Located in a little street between Cinema Bokor and the Tuol Sleng Museum. Parking for motos only (the best way to come is by moto taxi). Steam sauna, jacuzzi, rest and video room, electronic music. Homey and friendly atmosphere. Open 4-11pm Wed-Sun. Utopia Member Discount

  Comments from Utopians:

  "I went there twice last week and it is a really amazing place. I was very surprised to find there a lot of cute Khmer young men. I had a friendly welcome and great fun." -- PierreParis, Jun 22, 2008

• Rawmale Cafe & Spa
  35-D Street 55, Chaktomuk, 092-985-940, email. Discreet, gay and bi-friendly complex with dry sauna, steam, jacuzzi, barracks, gym and bar. Utopia Member Discount
• Romantic Gay's Spa
  No. 59, Street 350, Sang Kat Boeung Keng Kang 3, Kan Chamkar Morn (inside of Toul Sleng and Lou Tuek Sa Oy), 01-137-7666, 01-621-5215, email. The biggest gay spa in Phnom Penh, providing sauna, spa, gym, massage and gay shows. Clean and private environment with friendly staff. Twelve private rooms, Sky TV, jacuzzi, and steam room. They also provide guests with free shampoo, tea and coffee, and safety supplies. A selection of soft drinks are also available. Inexpensive entry fee.

  Comments from Utopians:

  "The Romantic Gay's Spa is so far the best gay spa and meeting point. At last I found a friendly and comfortable place. Older men and young men. Big space. Everything you need. I don't need to go to Bangkok anymore for my guilty gay pleasures. And cheap, too! And what a surprise - I never thought that Cambodian men can be this open and daring! Bangkok, watch out for Phnom Penh. Peak time is 6-7:30pm. Crowd thins after 8pm. Those who are more discreet can come after this time." -- Traveller123, Oct 8, 2008